FODDERBLOG: The Evening Before The Morning After
Sometimes you just know that dinner’s gonna work. You walk in with the one ingredient needed to make it shine, in the full understanding that yes, you’ll have to get a kettle on for boiling water as you walk in the door, probably before you get your coat off, but that’s all part of the deal. That’s what’ll make this one good, because this one is being cooked with love.
Water boils as I take off my coat. Into a pint jug goes half a pack of the dried chanterelle mushrooms I picked up on my way home from Fresh and Wild, for a half-hours soaking. I spend a while musing on the day with Clare, who has her head in an OU assignment, before chopping an onion, some garlic and the two field mushrooms in the salad tray of the fridge. The onions and garlic are sizzled in some olive oil and butter while I brave the garden for sage and rosemary. About a tablespoon’s worth, when I’ve chopped them. The herbs go into the hot pan along with the mushrooms, and everything cooks down for a good five minutes.
By now the chanterelles have had half an hour. I drain them, holding back the soaking liquid which is full of mushroomy goodness. This goes into a second pan, along with the pint or so of chicken stock I have in the fridge from Saturday’s chicken saute, and brought to a bluppy simmer. The soaked mushrooms go into the pan, along with a good shot of salt and pepper. That makes friends with everything else, then a cup of risotto rice goes in, followed soon after by a glass (or so) of white wine. There is bubbling and some seriously good aromas come up.
Once the rice has soaked up the wine, I start ladling in stock, a couple of spoonfuls at a time. I stir occasionally as the rice drinks the liquid, adding more as the pan becomes dry. This takes about twenty minutes. I fill the time with a glass of the same wine that went in with the rice (I don’t cook with anything I can’t drink. Tell me nobody does that anymore…) while flicking through the latest Uncut, and an article on The Smiths “The Queen Is Dead.” Twenty years old, apparantly. Feet up on the counter. No music. For a while, the only sound is the contented bubbling of the rice pan. I let it cook slowly, allowing the flavour to develop.
Once the rice is done, I stir in Parmesan and a little extra pepper, and let it rest momentarily while I toast the last of Saturday’s bread with a scrub more cheese on top. A quick swirl of extra virgin olive oil on top of the bread when it comes out from under the grill, and I call that done. Mushroom Risotto with Parmesan Toast.
It’s richly flavoursome, dark, filled with different textures and sodden with booze. I wouldn’t go so far as to call it food as biography, but there’s something about the meal that seems appropriate.
It’s December the 12th, and tomorrow I am 39. I won’t cook tomorrow. Tonight, all that’s left is the washing up and, if I feel the need, one last glass of wine.